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 Article of Interest - Lead

Q&A: Protecting against lead paint

from The Detroit Free Press, January 24, 2003

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QUESTION: How do I know if my home has lead paint?

 

ANSWER: If your home was built before 1978, it may contain lead paint. If it was built prior to 1960, it almost certainly has significant amounts of lead. The only way to be sure is to hire a contractor certified by the state to test for lead and/or assess risk. To find a list of state-certified inspectors, call toll-free 866-691-5323 or see www.michigan.gov/ documents/Inspectors-all_ 35939_7.htm.

Q: Is lead paint always an immediate health hazard?

A: No. Lead-based paint is usually not a problem if it is in good condition and not on a friction or impact surface -- such as a window frame, door jamb, or railing -- where it is likely to be scraped.

Q: What will an inspector do?

A: A lead inspection will identify where lead paint is present using a handheld instrument. A more comprehensive risk assessment will analyze the condition of the paint, the risk of exposure to children from paint, lead-contaminated dust and outdoor soil, and what can be done to fix problems and make the home safe.

Q: Is this expensive?

A: It depends on the company and the scope of the work. A complete risk assessment, including multiple dust and soil samples plus paint tests, can cost $600 or more. A targeted inspection addressing specific areas can cost less than $150.

Q: Can I buy a home test kit instead of hiring a contractor?

A: The federal government does not currently recommend home test kits, which often give misleading results because they are not properly used by home owners. Studies have shown they are not reliable enough to tell the difference between high and low levels of lead.

Q: What if an inspector finds problems in my home?

A: You can temporarily reduce hazards by repairing damaged painted surfaces and cleaning areas saturated with lead dust using special techniques to avoid making the problem worse. "Lead in Your Home: A Parent's Reference Guide" explains many of these techniques. Call 800-424-5323 or go to www.epa.gov/lead/leadrev.pdf.

Q: Will simple vacuuming and dusting remove lead particles from my home?

A: No. Even thorough vacuuming and cleaning with a wet cloth leaves most lead particles behind. Vacuums with special filtration systems need to be used.Lead-specific cleaning products or detergents that contain high levels of phosphates -- like automatic dishwasher detergents -- are most effective when washing lead surfaces.

Q: If I plan to do home renovation that involves disturbing lead paint, are there precautions I should take?

A: Yes. Never use a belt-sander, propane torch, heat gun, dry sandpaper or dry scraping to remove lead-based paint. There are a host of safe work practices and cleanup guidelines to ensure lead dust does not remain in your home after the work is done. Those practices include closing off work areas with plastic sheeting, spraying work surfaces with water to reduce dust, and turning off heating or air-conditioning to keep dust from spreading. For details about renovation safety, call 800-424-5323 or see www.epa.gov/lead/rrpamph.pdf.

Q: Wearing a dust mask will help protect me, right?

A: Wrong. Dust masks will not prevent you from inhaling lead dust. Use a NIOSH-certified respirator equipped with a HEPA filter or an N95 mask. HEPA filters are always purple.

Q: If I'm selling or buying a home, what are my obligations or rights?

A: Federal law requires the seller or landlord of a home to disclose the knowledge of any lead-based paint or hazards in housing constructed before 1978. They must also provide records related to the lead hazard, and a federal pamphlet titled: "Protect Your Family from Lead in Your Home." Sellers must provide purchasers with a 10-day period to conduct inspections or risk assessments.

Sources: Environmental Protection Agency, Michigan Department of Community Health, Protech Environmental Services of Ann Arbor. Compiled by Hugh McDiarmid Jr.

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NOTE: (ALL RESOURCES PRE-IDEA 2004 ARE FOR INFORMATIONAL/HISTORICAL RESEARCH PURPOSES ONLY)